Nostalgia is a powerful thing: nostalgia makes us think Jem and the Holograms was a brilliant program; that Nerds candy is edible; and that maybe it wouldn't be such a bad idea to throw ourselves on a Slip 'N Slide and go rocketing across our lawns and into a fence and end up with a concussion. Actually, that last one isn't such a bad idea, if we get rid of the fence part. But what does seem like a bad idea is the cashing in on nostalgia that the Regency Hotel in New York is doing, with their $30 television dinner.

The food in the tray has nailed the retro callback with a modern twist they're trying for here--pinot noir-roasted Pot Roast; a trio of baby potatoes, red cabbage stewed with vinegar and brown sugar, and steamed broccoli; Vahlrona chocolate pudding with a dab of whipped cream. It sounds fabulous, right? However, the setup is unavoidably unappealing, despite--or maybe because of--the perfectly recaptured television dinner setup, with everything all served together in their carefully compartmentalized food condos. Certainly it's supposed to be a cheeky wink back to the '50s, to television trays and women in poofy skirts and very white aprons and the idea that microwaves will save the world, or at least save the lady of the house a few moments in the kitchen.

But there's something smug, to me, about these dinners--as if they're also smirking at the idea that poor people are not classy and eat television dinners from Hungry Man, while rich people eat wine-stewed beef and think it's funny when it's served in porcelain TV dinner trays and are overprivileged jerks. Possibly I am not entering into the spirit of fun. Maybe I'm just wearied by the whole wacky retro thing that should have died by now. What do you think? Would you go pay 30 bucks for upscale teevee food?